Aaron De Lazzer, Director of Coffee for the Ethical Bean Coffee Company (EthicalBean.com)
Credit: supplied
FOODIE Q&A: Coffee expert loves his food, but also knows his limits
You are... Aaron De Lazzer, Director of Coffee for the Ethical Bean Coffee Company (EthicalBean.com).
What does the Director of Coffee do? “I look after quality control. That ranges from sourcing and buying our ‘green’ [slang for unroasted coffee], adjusting roast profiles, massaging blends… Anything and everything that relates to how our coffee tastes when you open the bag and brew a cup. I love what I do.”
We might find you dining out at... “[My wife and I] have two small children at home. Dining out is a rose-coloured memory. We did, however, recently celebrate my birthday at Le Faux Bourgeois Bistro. Wow! Ridiculous value, a stylish yet warm room, and sharp service. It exceeded my expectations on every level. Rangoli is also a favourite, and always hits all the right notes. I’ve been there umpteen times, and have never had anything but a great experience.”
Your dream dinner date (spouses and family don’t count): “I’m a bit of a shutterbug, with a particular affection for film. One of the first photographers whose work resonated with me was Sam Abell. I’d be delighted to share a meal with him. If he wasn’t available, I’d love to dine with Sean Thackrey, an inspired winemaker who is eccentric as hell, with the heart of a romantic and a fantastic repertoire of experience-based opinion.”
Last night’s dinner: “At home with my family. My wife is the best cook I know, full stop. Even better than my mother! Honey, your roast chicken with root vegetables is out of this world.”
If you had a date with the electric chair, your last meal order would be... “The thought is so horrific that I can’t even begin to formulate a comment.”
You’d gag if you ate... “I did the chicken feet once at dim sum. Once was enough. Not a big fan of overripe bananas, either. Prune juice can also take me there. Any other constipated children suffer this injustice at the hands of an Herbally Yours-reading mother?”
You’d be happiest at Happy Hour with... “Happy hour is when the kids go to bed, right? Sign me up for some big, fat, gratuitous buttercup of a California chardonnay. I can see middle age from where I’m standing — I no longer have any shame. People that taste things for a living, be it coffee or something else, can often fall into the trap of taking things too seriously and forgetting to have a little fun. I try to avoid that.”
Secret treats: “I do have a sweet tooth, and have a fondness for wine gums, cherry Nibs, and Milk Duds. They taste best when eaten on a road trip.”
You’d take a long flight in economy class for that one meal in... “There’s a place in the mountains of the Basque Country [in Spain] called Etxebarri. They have these custom-built grills that recreate the taste of food cooked over an open fire, and they marry the type of wood used for creating the charcoal to the item being grilled. Each order gets its own fire! The place is a one-off, with the sort of passion beyond reason, and incredible focus for doing one thing extremely well, that makes me giddy.”
What’s your foolproof method for brewing the perfect cup of coffee? “Be flexible. We all know the best cup of coffee is the one that’s made for you. Don’t go blind trying to have the most perfect technique. Making coffee complicated is currently very much in vogue — don’t believe the hype. That said, may I humbly suggest the French press for a foolproof cup. Use water three minutes off the boil. Pour while stirring, onto coffee that’s been ground a bit finer than the usual French press coarse grind. Wait three-ish minutes, punch down the cap that has formed, and scoop off any foam that remains. Press and serve.”
Five must-have ingredients in your kitchen: “Just like the first three rules of Fight Club are ‘Don’t talk about Fight Club’ [Actually, it’s the first two rules, but we’ll let it slide. —Ed.], the first three must-have ingredients are ‘my wife.’ As for the last two, I’d have to ask her. Let’s not forget I’m a coffee guy, not a renaissance man. I don’t even look at the stove without her being close by. Everything tastes better when she’s in the mix.”

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