Don Letendre, executive chef at Elixir at the Opus Hotel.

Credit: Doug Shanks

FOOD & DRINK: Dinner for One

Spending the holidays alone needn’t be a sad idea. Heck, some of us would prefer it! And in a city like Vancouver, where so many of us live but weren’t raised, it’s a common reality. In the spirit of embracing our shared solitude, we asked some of our favourite local chefs to imagine what they would prepare for their holiday feast if they were flying solo this season — both with all their chefly skills, and if they barely knew how to cook at all!

DON LETENDRE
Executive chef, Elixir at the Opus Hotel; this week’s cover star
Knowing what I know...
“I’d still want to keep it fairly simple — got to leave plenty of time for mindless TV and minimal washing up! — but also delicious and decadent. A whole, fresh Dungeness crab would be cooked to perfection — with champagne in hand — and served with a lip-smacking bowl of melted organic salted butter for dipping. Add fries, crisp and golden, but to hot things up a bit — I’m alone, after all — I’d toss them in exotic spices and serve them with creamy homemade mayo. Then I’d imbibe a stellar Riesling. And to go with the single-malt scotch I’ll be sipping later, some extra-aged cheddar and crisp apple slices. Heaven on earth!”
If I didn’t know how to cook...
“There’s always the liquid diet of champagne, beer, and scotch! But seriously, unless I want a completely comatose Christmas, I’ll need something to soak things up. A selection of artisan cheeses — soft and gooey, firm and nutty, hard and salty — with grapes and nuts, would complement all manner of beverages. Add some charcuterie, a couple of Oyama Sausage Co.’s tasty terrines, including the decadent foie-gras parfait; serve with toasted brioche and Raincoast Crisps; and things are looking festive! For dessert, I’d create an elaborate sundae, piled high with ice creams, fruits, lashings of caramel and chocolate sauce, topped with nuts, sprinkles, and a chocolate wafer. Then I’d reach for the Alka-Seltzer before heading to bed!”

NEIL TAYLOR
Executive chef, Cibo Trattoria / Uva Wine Bar
Knowing what I know...
“I would start off by pouring myself a nice gin and tonic with Beefeater London gin, to remind me of England [Taylor is a U.K. ex-pat] and to be drunk while cooking. I would have a whole roast squab wrapped in lardo, roast potatoes done in duck fat, roast Brussels sprouts with pancetta and chestnuts, some sautéed black trompette mushrooms, and a sauce made by deglazing the pan with a good red wine, such as an Amarone or a Barolo — the rest of which I would drink with my meal.”
If I didn’t know how to cook...
“I would still start off with a gin and tonic — everyone knows how to make one, don’t they? — made with the same gin for the same reason. Then I would have Heinz — it has to be Heinz; no other brand will do — baked beans on white buttered toast with grated, strong English cheddar on top, and finished off with some HP Sauce, to be eaten with a couple pints of Guinness. Also a perfect meal!”

TINA FINEZA
Executive chef, The Flying Tiger / Abigail’s Party
Knowing what I know...
“Our family tradition is Christmas dinner on the eve of the 24th. I would continue that tradition and make a feast for myself with the exact same dinner my Mom prepared: Russian potato salad (potatoes, beets, beans, celery, onion, mayonnaise); ‘Callos a la Madrileña’ (Spanish tripe stew with roasted red peppers, tripe, beef shank, garbanzo beans; a standing rib roast (a smaller version; enough for the next day plus two more servings); gravy with mushrooms; and ‘Ensaïmada’ (Philippine-style brioche buns with aged Edam). I would have champagne, dress up, and have a feast like our family did. When Christmas morning comes, I will eat the same for breakfast — exactly as I did growing up.”
If I didn’t know how to cook...
“No worries . I’ll go get cheese at Les Amis du Fromage, then off to Quince to pick up albacore-tuna skewers, braised lamb shank, garlic mashed potatoes, and crème caramel — all with simple instructions to reheat . Once again: dress up, have champagne, and have a feast.”

VIKRAM VIJ
Chef and proprietor, Vij’s / Rangoli
“I would sit in front of a decorated Christmas tree with no furniture in the living room — just a cozy, soft rug and a crackling fire, completely naked. I’d open an old-world Pinot Noir and eat a slow-cooked goat-meat stew, thank every event in life that created the kind of person I am today, and believe that if I died today, I would have no regrets in life.”

NICO SCHUERMANS
Chef and proprietor, Chambar
Knowing what I know...
“I’d go simple but decadent: half a pound of caviar, meats from Oyama Sausage Co. on Granville Island, and a bottle of champagne.”
If I didn’t know how to cook...
“Everyone should know how to cook! If I didn’t, I think I’d give myself cooking classes at the Dirty Apron [Chambar’s new cooking school, opening in early 2009] as a present. By the time the holidays came around next year, I’d be able to invite friends and family over to enjoy a home-cooked meal.”

ANDREY DURBACH
Chef and proprietor, Parkside / Pied-à-Terre / La Buca
Knowing what I know...
“Macaroni and cheese with bits of Holstein ham from Oyama Sausage Co., the best cave-aged Gruyère cheese from Les Amis du Fromage, and Heinz ketchup. Plus a six-pack of Heineken.”
If I didn’t know how to cook...
“If I didn’t know how to cook, then I would probably pick up a copy of the Delicious Chicken Soup cookbook and follow the recipe exactly to make the perfect chicken soup. Sure, it’s my own cookbook, but I wrote it because everyone can make a delicious chicken soup — young, old, and especially those who don’t know how to cook.”

ROBERT BELCHAM
Executive chef and proprietor, Fuel
Knowing what I know...
“If I was on my own for Christmas dinner, I would splurge on myself — a personal Christmas gift, if you will. I’d start with a bottle of vintage Krug Champagne. To eat, I would roast a single squab and serve it with seared foie gras, Brussels sprouts, and chestnuts. Then finish off with a lot more krug.”
If I didn’t know how to cook...
“Now if I did not know how to cook and I was alone on Christmas, I would defiantly order in Chinese food and a six-pack from Dial a Bottle. I would eat until I was stuffed and pass out in front of the TV.”

MANUEL FERREIRA
Chef, sommelier and proprietor (“and janitor”), Le Gavroche
Knowing what I know...
“A typical French Christmas dinner is celebrated Christmas Eve after mass, but with Christmas Eve being a very busy restaurant night in Vancouver I would be too busy to enjoy this on the Eve.My Christmas dinner for one would be accompanied by a great bottle of champagne — vintage if I had it available, but otherwise a Moët or Cremant Alsace. To start, a fresh baguette, possibly with a local unsalted butter. I would feast on local oysters — Kushi or Cortes Island — finished with a light red-wine and shallot mignonette. Following that, smoked salmon — spring or sockeye — with all the traditional accoutrements: onion, capers, lemon. Dessert traditionally is a Christmas log, but as I am solo, I think one or two perfect chocolate éclairs would suffice nicely. And my tribute to Canada whilst enjoying a French dinner: watching hockey, of course!”
If I didn’t know how to cook...
“Now, if I didn’t know how to cook, most of this would still apply. Shucking oysters could be a challenge, but the rest is easy to put together and very easily purchased at most grocery stores. Simple is good!”

Compiled by Michael White