The patio at the recently opened Market by Jean-Georges, in the Shangri-la Hotel, is one of the best new outdoor spaces in Vancouver to dine during the summer months. Be forewarned, though: they don’t take reservations.

Credit: Doug Shanks

ON THE PLATE: The city’s best new patios

When patio weather returns in earnest each year, I scan a list I keep of the new restaurants in Vancouver that have yet to endure the full force of their first summer onslaught, and then make plans to visit the best of them. But an unexpected something happened at last summer’s end: the global economy tanked. There have been many restaurant casualties since, including a few that were home to some of my favourite patios — Ocean 6 Seventeen and Fiddlehead Joe’s, among others — which will never see another sunny day.

But it hasn’t been all bad news, of course. Among the new crop of al fresco tables that have arrived or been reimagined since October 2008, there are four standouts for which I wish long life, blue skies, and healthy profit margins. If you haven’t checked them out yet, you should.

MARKET BY JEAN-GEORGES
In the Shangri-La Hotel, 1128 West Georgia, 604-689-1120, Shangri-la.com/en/property/vancouver/shangrila
It was a dark and stormy January night the first time I ascended the lengthy flight of stairs up to Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s just-opened Market, the New York City-based superstar chef’s first Canadian restaurant. Despite the cold, I couldn’t help but pause to take a look around upon reaching the unfinished landing. The door to the already bustling restaurant proved inviting, but next to it was the beginnings of what promised to be a superb patio. There were no tables or chairs yet, but even in the depth of winter you could imagine it, sun-dappled and full, overlooking the rapidly changing streetscape of Alberni. Fast-forward six months, and the sleek 25-seat looker has evolved into some of the most desirable real estate in the city for sipping and supping. Tables are first-come, first-serve, so no need to stress about making reservations — it won’t make a difference.
What to drink: The food is great bang for the buck, so splurge on Moët & Chandon Champagne by the glass ($25).
What to eat: fresh local oysters in the half shell (market price) and black-truffle pizza ($13).

DB BISTRO MODERNE
2551 West Broadway, 604-739-7115, DBBistro.ca
The closure of Feenie’s in the spring of 2008 crippled the West Side’s better patio options for a year. Its replacement, DB Bistro Moderne (celebrity chef Daniel Boulud’s newest jewel in his global gastronomic crown), was slated to reopen in time for the final few weeks of that summer, but the redesign was delayed until the last rays of sunshine were all but fond memories. Now, with its elegant, elongated sidewalk strip of 30 seats returned to bask in all-afternoon West Broadway beams, the reincarnation is complete. Given the new owner’s pedigree, you would expect the vibe to be slightly more upscale and maybe even a little tighter than it was when it was Feenie’s, but DB Bistro is supposed to be casual — and it is.
What to drink: any cocktail by drinks guru Cameron Bogue
What to eat: The DB Burger draws a crowd, but I’ve never had a soup here that I didn’t like ($9 for a cup; $11 for a bowl).

MIKU
2–1055 West Hastings Street, 604-568-3900, MikuRestaurant.com
Specializing in aburi sushi (lightly seared and infused with savoury French sauces), this glitzy newcomer from Japan’s Toro Corporation recently unveiled a sexy outdoor space that I didn’t see coming (I spied no patio when I visited last winter). You’d think its location — at West Hastings and Thurlow, on the main floor of the Guinness Tower — would give it a big-city atmosphere, but its 48 seats are so secluded that one feels let in on a little secret rather than oppressed by the weight of the surrounding skyscrapers. It’s mercifully shaded, and perfumed by fresh flowers (a nice, lamentably uncommon touch). And with a name that translates as “beautiful sky,” it’s only fitting that peek-a-boo views of the North Shore mountains can be had as well.
What to drink: premium saké or Japanese-inspired cocktails.
What to eat: the signature Miku Roll of salmon, cucumber, golden caviar, urchin, and crab mayo ($15).

L'ALTRO BUCA
1906 Haro, 604-683-6912, AltroBuca.ca
The 45-seat patio at the West End’s popular, Italian-themed L’Altro Buca (“the other hole” in Italian) hasn’t changed much since it was launched to replace the more formal, French-backboned Parkside in the spring. In fact, save for the addition of a small herb garden, the stone terrace is exactly the same as the original. That may sound a touch boring if it weren’t for the fact that the original was almost perfect: intimate, hedge-hemmed, serenely quiet, super romantic, and remarkably well served. Sadly, though, it’s open only until 10 p.m. , at which point guests are steered indoors so as not to upset the few locals who remain convinced they don’t live in the heart of a major city. But now that it’s less expensive, this is an easy crease to iron. With much of the same staff and the same ownership running the show, it’s as if nothing (and everything) has happened.
What to drink: You’ll want to linger here, so skip the by-the-glass idea and go right for a bottle of Renzo Masi “Basciano” Chianti Rufina from Tuscany ($40)
What to eat: Their Amatriciana ($17) — garganelli noodles with a sauce of house-cured gianciale (pork cheek), San Marzano tomatoes, and semi-sweet onion —is one of the best I’ve ever had.